Details matter, make it right

For the fuel delivery system and fuel injection maintenance, please visit this page:
Fuel Injection Maintenance

Weekly

• Check and maintain oil level
• Check and maintain coolant Level
• Check and maintain brake fluid level
• Wash and clean the car. Seal off air filter, tank vent, and exhaust. If using a pressure washer, be careful not to spray high pressure in the ECU ignition box, Power Commander, bearing seals, universal joint, rubber boot of the master cylinder, splines of steering column, and tank vent
• Remove the torsion bars, one at a time, leave the torsion stop on to ensure proper direction when reinserting. Clean old grease off the bar and the inside of the torsion busing. Reapply water proof grease (Champion Oils makes an awesome high temp waterproof grease) to the bar ends and the inside of the bushings
• Remove foam pre-filter for flat filter, or foam filter for oval filter, clean with filter cleaner or soap and water, reapply foam filter oil. Clean paper air filter element every 2-4 races depending on environment. If you do not run a foam pre-filter, remove the paper filter and clean and reapply paper filter oil. We actually like the Klotz Green lable Foam Filter Oil for the paper elements as it is thinker and does not get pulled through the element and into the engine as easily.
• Lubricate the following:
  • all rod ends
  • universal joint
  • splines of sliding steering column
  • shock shaft, eyes, and adjuster cables
  • shifter and wing adjuster shafts
  • threads on splined rear axle
  • nylon bushings on wing sliders
  • steering quick release
  • master cylinder shaft
  • pedal pivot points
  • throttle cable
• Remove and clean front and rear sprocket, chain, and on 270's the carburetor. Dry with compressed air. Apply chain lube to chain from the inside of the chain. It will then work its way out during rotation, otherwise, it just flings off.
• Using a waterproof grease in a grease gun, grease the spindles and rear bearing carriers.
• Check all fasteners, bolts, and electrical connections, including the ground bolts, battery terminals, screws on the back of the switches, and tighten if necessary.
• Inspect brake pads. Make sure you use brake pad spacers, if not the piston will extend too far and bind as pads wear
• Inspect all radius rods, shocks, axles, steering arms, steering box, Jacob's Ladder, and wheels for bent or binding items. They may look straight, but if you rotate them or put a straight edge on them, you may find otherwise.
• See our fuel injection maintenance page for injection considerations.
• If you run chain tensioner wheels, check these and replace if worn out. Nylon guide blocks on our wishbone cars need to be replaced about every 20 races
• Make sure the upper steering shaft moves freely, and ream bushings if needed.
• Make sure the collapsible steering shaft is free, pull up the rubber boot and apply grease if necessary.
• Check play on front hubs, and tighten or loosen the spindle nut if necessary.
• Check coolant level.
• With electronic fuel injection, turn the fuel pump on every 4 days to circulate fuel. If not racing for a couple weeks, purge the system with gasoline, here's how
• If changing sprockets, make sure to readjust the chain block so it is 1/16" away from the sprocket or the chain will skip.

Every 4 Races

• Repack the front wheel bearings with grease.
• Change 600cc engine oil every 3-4 races if using cheap oil, change every 6 races if using Champion Synthetic Micro Sprint Oil or other high quality synthetic.
• Change 2-stroke transmission oil every 10 races.
• Change 600cc spark plugs every 15-20 races, change 2-stroke spark plugs every 4 races.
• Check Jacob's ladder and replace if lateral play develops.
• Check gas pressures if running monotube shocks.
• Ultrasonically clean the 25 micron fuel filter, this will be the second filter in the system. Clean the 120 micron filter every 6 races. When cleaning EFI fuel filters, put them back in the system directly afterwords, then turn on the fuel pump to remove any air that is in the system.

Every 25 Races

• Replace king pins and king pin bushings.
• Replace upper steering shaft bushings.
• Replace the wing slider bushings (if applicable).
• Inspect wheel bearings and replace if necessary by removing the front hubs and bearing carriers. On each bearing, turn the inner race by hand. The bearing should spin perfectly smooth. If any grinding, drag, or uneven rotation is felt, the bearing must be replaced. Front bearings  Rear Bearings if you remove the dust cap, replace the o-ring
• Replace chain if it is a standard chain, DID ERV3 gold chains replace after 40 races.
• Replace 600cc throttle cable and 2-stroke throttle cable.

At Season End or 40 -60 races

• Purge methanol from fuel delivery system, see our fuel injection maintenance page for more information.
• Rebuild the master cylinder, install a new master cylinder rebuild kit.
• Replace brake line and possibly fittings.
• Replace torsion bars and torsion bar bushings.
• Inspect and replace if lip is forming on rear brake rotor and front brake rotor.
• Rebuild the rear brake caliper by replacing the square o-rings, pistons, pads, o-ring, and bleeder valves.
• Rebuild the HBS front brake caliper by replacing the square o-rings, pistons, pads, o-ring, and the bleeder valve.
• Inspect and replace if necessary:
  • rack box for wear and play, these can be sent out for rebuild, for old style(frame mounted) rack box, replace wear bar and adjust play.
  • steering quick release (the new splined style can last for years).
  • universal joints (usually need replaced every 60 races).
  • all rod ends.
• Check seat belts for fraying replace every 2 years.
• Twin tube shocks need rebuilt every 40 races, monotube shocks every 90 races. Send to us or directly to ARS for rebuild.
• Replace 600cc connecting rods every 60 races, rings every 15-30 races.
• Replace bearings in the adjustable throttle pedal assembly.
• Exercise the driver so he stays in shape!