Hyper Micro/Mini Sprint Chassis Specific Information

These ideas and suggestions will change as more R&D is completed. I will make some general notes on this page about specific information for Hyper Micro Sprint Chassis. Please check it at least once a month.

With the new coil over front end on the X6 chassis, make sure you have enough counter steer. A minimum of 40 degrees is reguired and 45 is preferred for wingless. If the left front tire hits the coil spring before enough countersteer is reached, call the shop.

For those of you that bought our new X6 Jacob's ladder Wishone chassis. It is very important that the rear axle be positioned at the correct location to avoid Jacob's ladder bind. With the rear axle on 2-3/4" blocks, the Jacob's ladder should be in the middle of its free play. On the car I just assembled, I made the wishbone 23-3/8" center to center long. Then square the axle by adjusting the length of the left side wish bone. If you need to cut the right side wish bone down in order to achieve this condition, you can cut up to .125" (1/8") off each end. Do not cut so much that you weaken the weld holding in the inserts that the rod ends screw into.

For the new multi point Jacob's ladder use, start with the Jacob’s ladder mounted in the left side frame mount hole. Then on the Jacob’s ladder paddle holes it depends. With a heavy driver (over 210 pounds) or on a really wet and/or rough track I would probably start in the #1 hole (both top and bottom). For a normal track to a slick track use hole #3 both top and bottom. Or for a middle of the road choice use hole #4. Remember that on holes 4 and 2 you need to use the 5-3/8” center to center straps and on the 1,3, and 5 positions you use the 5” straps. They are designed this way so you can change hole positions without the rear axle moving side to side at all so changes can be made quickly. Use the #5 hole for wingless on a slick track.

Again for the 2013 season we have developed a new shock package, although not as drastic of changes as in 2012, there are still some considerable gains to be made. The biggest and most valuable change is the left front shock. The standard shock now delivered on all of our 600's is a 326 4/2. This is a pretty big tie down. Some guys even like a 5/1 there. This shock delivers a much more drivable car, one that hooks up better on slick, and is more drivable on tack. I do not see any reason to run an adjustable shock on the left front. This shock even works good for wingless, although not as big of gains are seen here.

The other change that can really help is the new B327 4.5/4.5-2 WXS B/S right rear shock. It uses a different technology than all the other ARS shocks. While I am not at liberty to go into what that technoilogy is, I can tell you that is increases the .5" and 1"/sec dampening rates. This yeilds more grip in the rear. Also if you do not have a right rear shock that has the WXS designation, the W delivers a new base valve design that really stiffens up the compression at high velocities, like when th ecar hits a bump or curb. It really helps the car in wet and on the cushion.

We have made a general determination that mounting the rear panhard bar in the center of the left rear bearing carrier on the clevis (04-162 purchased separately) yields a more consistent car that hooks up better. In the past, I have not considered the roll center location from left to right, just the vertical position. With the lower mount, and the panhard bar on a clevis, the roll center moves to the right about 1 inch and down about 1". Moving the roll center to the right keeps the car from "rolling over center" or getting balled up tight on the right rear, yet still keeps the car hooked up with the roll center low. To make this change you will need the clevis and a shorter 17" rear panhard bar 03-170. The rear panhard bar length may be slightly different depending on your chassis set up.

Check check and recheck......I have seen many issues with customers cars that have issues that should never happen. Download our set up sheets, set up manual, and assembly manual. Here are some common things I find:

  • RF wheel offset, should generally be 3/4" to the right, RF & LF wheel should be 4" outer half with 3" inner half
  • Make sure your shocks are good, spin the shaft to check for straightness, fully extend shock then push in slowly at first to check for air bubbles, get them dynoed to make sure they are what they are supposed to be. We will be having videos and tech sheets on shock valvings over the winter, a huge subject that most do not understand.
  • Check your rear shackles, LR should be 4" center to center (read article below) RR should be 3-1/4". Shackle length sets the arm angle.
  • Check for binds in rod ends, rods, bearings, etc.
  • Read and understand the setup sheets, any questions, please email me and ask.
  • Grind your tires, make sure you have good edges, the friction your tire generates means everything.
  • If your chain is skipping, keep the nylon block up against the sprocket. Anything more than a 1/16" may cause your chain to skip.
  • If going to softer bars in the rear, add turns to keep your ride height  where it was.
     

As many of you have seen on my new car I have a full set of shock potentiometers. These data collecting devices allow me to evaluate exactly what my car is doing, how it is moving around. From this I can determine what the car needs and when it needs it. From this data I have a new front shock package that offers an advantage on all size tracks, send me your front shocks, and I will re-valve them for you.  They really help on entry and into the first half of the turn. You can view the shcks on the online store here.

On small slick smooth tracks, lean towards using more left rear weight, even up to 52% cross weight can work real well. You may have to use more stagger in combination with this. If you do not have scales use RF +2 turns, LF+0, LR+1, RR+0

2007-2011 600 Assembly Manual

All 270 & 1998-2006 600 Assembly Manual

Make sure your rear shackle lengths are correct, they should be 4" center to center on the left side, and 3-1/4" on the right side. If these are set wrong, the arm angles will not be correct. The length of the left side shackle will effect the needed length of the bump rubber, with a 4" shackle a full length 2-1/4" bump rubber is needed. We have a new part to allow you to get a 4" shackle, part number 03-020. It uses one right hand and one left hand 7/16" rod end. You will need to cut 1/4" off the ends of each of the rod ends to achieve this length.

I updated all the setup sheets.....again, life just never stops teaching us. 12/09/10. Click here to go to the setup page section. Having the setup seminar this winter makes me really want to understand things better so I can better teach. As a result I starting digging into the text books again, and changed a few of my theories. Of course theories are great, but real life is what matters. I have been testing them on the track this season and it is working out. As a result I updated my suggested starting point and recommended adjustments. If you change rear bars, check your ride heights as they should be close to the same as they were. On my new setup sheet I list the ride heights of what my car on a normal track (heights are measured form the ground to the center of the torsion bar). On a small slick track, I will raise ride heights to get more forward bite, on the big tracks I will lower my ride heights to get the car more stable and tighter going in and in the middle, forward bite is generally not an issue on large tracks.Racers do not change their bars enough as track conditions change. We all try to adjust easier things as conditions change, but I tell you, spring rates are the best way to adjust. Turns here or there are just a rob Peter to pay Paul adjustment. And both Peter and Paul want to be happy! These suggested bar rates are for a 150 to 175 pound driver. The heavier the driver, stiffer rear bars will be needed to keep the car from extreme bottoming out. This will help on consistency.

Use these bars on an '07 and up 600cc, use proportionately sized bars for other years:
Smooth Slick Track
LF 700
RF 725
LR 675
RR 700

Not so smooth slick track
LF 700
RF 700
LR 700
RR 725

Normal Track
LF 675
RF 675
LR 700 or 725
RR 725 or 750

Wet Track
LF 625
RF 650
LR 750
RR 775 or 800 if really wet (lower car as much as possible without bottoming out.)

If you have an adjustable seat bar, make sure you have #10 bolts or some kind of pin in the ends of the seat bar. Otherwise there is a risk of the bar pushing through in an accident. Make sure you check your bolts in the universal joints, they tend to work loose. The universals come from the factory with set screws in them, take out these set screws and use hex head bolts (1/4-20 x 1/2" with a jam nut). Moving the LR out will help tighten up on the first half of the turn of larger tracks, remember that. Customers running my deep belly wing, keep in mind that they will sit 2" higher than a normal wing. You may need to cut off some height off of the front top wing posts on big tracks, keep them long for smaller tracks. This lowers the wing height, otherwise it may tend to wing over too much getting in on the big tracks. With the traction bar make sure you read and understand the traction bar setup notes: use this as a setup guide:


2007 and up Hyper mini sprint & micro sprint Owners: After several months of R&D with the new cars I have made several conclusions:
1. Do not use a 10-2/2 tie down on the left rear, it is way too much tie down. In my opinion, even the the 8-2/2 is too much tie down, but this shock can work if you run it at two turns out from full stiff (stiff is full clock wise the adjuster knob). One symptom of too much tie down on the left rear is the car will hop in the middle of the corner.

2. With the increased travel on the '07 and up Hyper 600's cars have in the rear, there is a tendency for the chain to skip if not prepared correctly. With the chain block set up for our chain guide, make sure you have it positioned up as close to the sprocket as you can get it, this will help with chain skipping. Every time you change rear sprockets, you will need to move the chain guide. Also if you are having problems with chain skipping, lift up on the left front corner of the engine as you tighten up the engine bolts, this keeps the engine in the loaded position, otherwise when under load the engine may pull up the left front corner and loosen the chain. 1000cc cars will need to run our double chain tensioner 08-800.

3. If you are having problems running hot: Many customers have tried a new product for us called 40 below by Pro Blend. It really works. Mix 1 can into your water. DO not use with coolant. Also, on our original '07 micro sprint cars, we ran the nose cone, the car will run cooler if you remove this. In '08 we developed a new hood and radiator tray that will also make the car run cooler, or you can run our 2010 hood on any '07 and up hyper 600.

4. On high banked or rough tracks, if you are having problems bottoming out, re-block the rear using 1-1/4" blocks +1 in RR +0 in LR. If you are lacking forward bite on your 2006 or older chassis, move the front axle forward. On my car, I moved it so my wheel base is 61", I have had other customers run it as far front as 61-1/2" wheel base. This adds more weight to the rear of the car, more weight equals more forward bite. To achieve the 61" wheel base you will need three 12-1/2" radius rods for the front. you can go to about 60-1/2" just by lengthening the radius rods that are on the car. You may also need to cut off the tip of the front torsion arms to keep them from hitting the steering rods.

On the 600's, make sure you are using 3" inner halves and 4" outer halves on the front. Some of the micro sprints I see are using a 4" inner on the right front. This makes the front end too narrow and makes the car too lose and hard to control.

For coil over front cars, make sure you are using the coil over front axle, it is 38" and has the shock towers in the correct position 016-042.

One adjustment that works well is to take tilt out of the car to tighten and put tilt in the car to loosen. You can measure tilt with the car on the ground and measure form the ground to the center of the cross tube in the front and the back. On the 600's use 1-1/4" of tilt in the back. On a slick track add 2-3 turns to the left rear and 1 turn to the left front.  On coil over cars add 8 turns to the left rear and 3 to the left front. These adjustments do several things, it will add a little more left rear/right front weight, move the center of gravity to the right, and raise the center of gravity.

Please check your seat belts every couple of races for seat belt fraying. We have seen several cars come into the shop where the seat belts started fraying where the lower rear sheet-metal contacts the belt webbing.

If you have an upper steering shaft with a snap-ring groove and an E-Clip (pre 2005) to hold it in please read on. We are now offering a stronger shaft, it utilizes a pinch clamp instead of a snap ring to hold the shaft in. The snap ring style tends to twist off at the reduced diameter when the front end is in an accident. Order part number 16-117 or 16-103. You will need to space the rack out with our sprocket guide spacers to make up for the added length.

Be careful on rough tracks that you don't make the front end too stiff. When this happens, the front end will loose compliance (loose touch) with the track and cause the car to be unpredictable and push for what seams like no reason. A stiff front end is good on a smooth slick track, but be careful.

One thing I noticed at the tracks the last few weeks is racers have a tendency to not make big enough changes on their coil over cars as the night goes on and the track changes. Adding 2 turns, for coil over or 1/2 to 1 turn for torsion to the let rear to make a change will not make a change that you will notice. Generally when we go from a wet track to a basic or slick track we will do a minimum of changing right rear springs or bars of at least one spring rate size and sometimes two sizes, move the right rear offset by 1" or 1-1/2", raise or lower the car by 1/2", and change stagger by 1" to 3". Don't be bashful, these cars will do what you tell them to do, but you have to have the setup right for the track. Don't go to the track thinking you are not going to change much. It is a half a guessing game; I have been racing micro sprints for 28 years and still have to guess at exactly what setup to put on. I don't always get it right, but when I miss, I learn, remember, and try not to let it happen again.

I really do not like reverse spring rate or even reverse split on a torsion car in the rear, it just makes the car do weird unpredictable things. Maybe on the Jacobs ladder car it is a last resort, but that is it.

If you are using a weight jacker, use it on the left rear. It is most effective there. Use the block height recommended in the setup and "0" the spring with the jacker one turn from being fully extended. Then if the setup calls for -4 turns from the left rear, take 4 turns out (counterclockwise) of the weight jacker. It is a coincidence that one turn on the jacker is the same as one turn on the coil kit.